Cruising The Exumas

Voyaging in the Exumas in the Bahamas includes swimming pigs, rock iguanas, vibrant coral reefs, pristine beaches and more.
Big Major Cay swimming pig
The swimming pigs near Big Major Cay are a must-see when cruising through the Bahamas. They’ll come right out to the tender. bearacreative/adobe.stock

With 365 cays to choose among, the Exumas chain in the Bahamas offers something for every day of the year. Cruise around the chain’s three major areas—Great Exuma, Little Exuma and the Exuma Cays—to explore its wildlife, sapphire waters, beaches and waterfront dining.

Natural Attractions

Big Major Cay is home to one of the Exumas’ biggest attractions: the world-famous swimming pigs. The 20 or so frequently photographed feral pigs and piglets are the only residents of this uninhabited cay just a short cruise from Staniel Cay. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.

On Allen Cay off Great Exuma, boaters will find a literal mess of its namesake Allen Cays rock iguanas—that’s the term for a group of these scaly creatures. This endangered species can grow up to 4 feet long, but they’re gentle giants.

The 112,000-plus-acre Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, established in 1957, was the first of its kind in the world and remains a model of marine preservation and biodiversity. A visitors center and hiking trails provide a lay of the park’s land, while moorings make it easy to explore the pristine waters and vibrant reefs. They are part of the second-largest coral barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere.

Thunderball Grotto became a requisite dive and snorkel spot in the Exumas after its appearance in two James Bond films. Located just west of Staniel Cay, this underwater cave system teeming with marine life is best entered at ebb tide.

Breathtaking beaches stretch across the entire island chain. The white-powder crescent of Tropic of Cancer Beach straddles its namesake latitude along the coast of Little Exuma. Secluded Cocoa Plum Beach, known for excellent shelling, is a cruisers’ favorite, far easier to access by water than by road. The beaches of Stocking Island, just across from Georgetown’s harbor on Great Exuma, range from tranquil coves to legendary hangouts.

Refuel and Refresh

Visitors from the world over flock to the landmark Chat ’N’ Chill on Stocking Island. This quintessential beach bar, known for a family-friendly vibe, has it all: a sizable drink menu, a delicious Sunday pig roast, freshly made conch salad, live music, volleyball courts, and a chance to feed and swim with stingrays.

Boaters will find a more upscale atmosphere at the Sea Level restaurant at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a longtime hub for cruisers. Reservations are required for dinner, which can include such refined fare as duck confit and rack of lamb.

On Little Exuma, the casual beachfront Santanna’s Bar & Grill is a must-stop for freshly prepared seafood, particularly lobster and grouper dishes. Save some cash and appetite for the adjacent Mom’s Bakery, where the delectable desserts include rum cake, cinnamon rolls and banana bread.